Two Islands and a Bit More

In the middle of Stockholm there are two smallish, green islands situated, they both have a long history and have been used for various purposes for centuries. They're also both part of the Nationalstadsparken project, to preserve nature and culture for future generations.

The larger island is reached by foot, and car or bus, walking passed Grand Hotel, then passed the National museum, then over a lovely old bridge with gilded royal crowns - and then you've reached the island of Skeppsholmen (skepps = ship's, holmen = the islet).

On that island there are quite a few museums, such as Moderna Museet - the museum of modern art -, Östasiatiska - the Eastasian museum, somehow I still vividly remember ages ago, a friend and I who stood in a queue that began right before the bridge over to Skeppsholmen, in the freezing winter, well below minus 20 degrees C, just to catch the exhibition of the world famous Chinese Terracotta Army... It took hours before we even reached the museum entrance... - Arkitekturmuseum - the architectural museum - and the Royal University College of Fine Arts - Konsthögskolan.

Once upon a time one of my favourite cafés, Format, was also to be found in one of the houses at Skeppsholmen. But that was a long time ago, alas... The island has also hosted different kinds of concerts and events on a regular basis for many years. Including the annual Stockholm Jazzfestival. The summer outdoor concerts are really something special...

The whole island is really jampacked with wonderful looking, old buildings in different sizes and styles. I have no idea what even half of them house, neither then nor now, but they sure play their part in making the whole island a delightful, and relaxing, place to walk. Nowadays. Skeppsholmen also has a been used for military purposes once upon a time.

You can also get to Skeppsholmen by taking the lovely ferryline Djurgårdsfärjan, from the landing right below Slussen - Old Town. A very short trip that will give you some amazing views over Stockholm and its inlet. I like taking that ferry whenever I can, it brings back sweet childhood memories as well as giving a bit of a purgative feel if you stand outside on deck.

The smaller island, Kastellholmen (kastell = citadel), is reached by foot from Skeppsholmen. Lovely houses - some private homes - and the red brick citadel on top. Climb up there and you've got an amazing view of the city. Of Djurgården, Vasamuseet, amusement park Gröna Lund and so on.

At Kastellholmen there's also another lovely looking red brick building, which is an old iceskating pavilion from the late 1800. A house that for some odd, and unknown reason, gives me the most unpleasant jitters... The place is now being renovated into conference facilities.

And yes, if you feel like having coffee or something more substantial, there are several different cafés and restaurant on Skeppsholmen. Perhaps the most renowned one is the museum restaurant at Moderna. Even if these works of...um, art, in front of the museum really is enough to make anyone lose their appetite...

This time though, we opted for the lovely café Atrium - which can be booked for private functions -, situated in the Nationalmuseum. Where I had this delightful surprise of an amazing macroni cake, it may look like a tiny almost nothing but oh my, was it special... Quite the perfect round off to a perfect Indian summer day, I'd say.

If you'd like to know more about Skeppsholmen and Kastellholmen, only in Swedish, you'll find it here